Handlebar conversion on the bicycle: Properly mount and adjust handlebars & stem

Why should you invest time in handlebar assembly? Quite simply – the bike's cockpit is literally the pivotal point between you and the bicycle, it must function. Furthermore, it is partly responsible for your seating position and thus for your comfort.

Here you will learn how to assemble a steering center from handlebars and stem that provides optimal comfort and more performance.

Why is it worth modifying the handlebars?

You have already read it – the handlebars and the stem determine how your upper body is positioned on the bicycle . They also influence the steering characteristics of the bicycle.

→ So if you are not sitting comfortably on the bicycle and repeatedly struggle with numb hands, aching shoulders, or back problems, it is worth realigning the handlebars or replacing the handlebars and stem.

→ Even if you feel that you do not have good control over your bike, a new handlebar or a different handlebar position can help.

“The cockpit” of the bicycle consists of a whole bunch of individual parts that must work perfectly together to ensure your bike fits and functions. These points are important:

• The handlebar is one of the three contact points between bicycle and rider and thus a crucial factor for comfort, steering precision, and safety. Handlebars come in different shapes and widths, which can greatly change your posture and steering characteristics.
• The stem is often not really noticed, for many it is simply a part of the handlebars. But it is actually an independent bicycle part, connecting the bike and handlebars. Thus, it is responsible for ensuring you travel comfortably, controlled, and safely. The length of the stem influences how stretched you sit. The stem can also be angled straight or up or down, then the handlebars move higher or lower.
• Spacers are rings in various thicknesses that you can place under the stem to raise the cockpit as a whole.
• Additionally, the shift and brake levers are part of the cockpit, as well as grips (or handlebar tape) and the headset belong to it.

Here you see the combination of stem, handlebars, and spacers. Image © Bombtrack

To ensure optimal function, handlebars and stem must be properly mounted and adjusted. In this post, we provide you with valuable tips on handlebar assembly and cockpit adjustment.

For handlebar assembly or stem replacement, a set of Allen keys and a torque wrench are usually sufficient.

The right tools for handlebar assembly on the bicycle

To properly mount or adjust your bicycle handlebars and stem, you don't need any special tools. An averagely equipped toolbox should contain everything necessary to change the handlebars:

• Important are Allen keys, preferably a whole set of them, so the right size for the clamping screws of your stem and the top cap is surely included.
• A torque wrench ensures the correct torque and guarantees that no components or screws get damaged.
• To align the brake/shifter levers on a road bike or gravel bike at the same height, a tape measure or ruler is needed.
• For carbon parts, a bicycle assembly paste is highly recommended.

Tools for mounting the bicycle handlebars

Allen keys | Torque wrench | Assembly paste

When changing the handlebars of a gravel bike or road bike, there is more to consider than when changing an MTB handlebar.

Change bicycle handlebars and stem on a road bike & gravel bike

The longer your gravel bike trips or road bike rounds are, the more important it is to set up your cockpit comfortably. Here's how:

Changing the stem

Changing the stem on your road bike or gravel bike is quite easy, you can just try it yourself.

1. You first disassemble the handlebars at the four screws of the stem clamp, loosen the two screws on the side of the stem to the steerer tube, and unscrew the top cap. Now you should hold the fork, in case your road bike or gravel bike is not on the ground, as the fork can otherwise slip out.
2. Remove the spacers and the old stem and thread the new one onto the steerer tube. Make sure that the build height of the new stem matches the dimensions of the old model. If the new stem is lower in its build height, an additional spacer or shortening of the steerer tube may be necessary. If not, reattach the previously installed spacers and hand-tighten the top cap back into the steerer tube.
3. Next mount the bicycle handlebars with the four screws on the stem. Important: Pay attention to cross-tightening (first bottom left, then top right, then top left, then bottom right) and the correct torque . Next, use the Ahead screw to set the correct distance of the headset. To do this, pull the front brake and move your bike slightly back and forth. With your index finger on the lower headset, you can feel if there is still play between the fork and the headset. Minimal turns of the Ahead screw may be enough to eliminate the play. Never tighten the Ahead screw too much, as this could crush the headset.
4. Finally align the stem straight to the front wheel and tighten the two side screws with a torque wrench as recommended by the manufacturer.

Easy to see: the Ahead screw (see arrow) and the manufacturer's torque specifications.

Handlebar conversion on a road bike or gravel bike

1. Before you can install a new drop bar on the gravel bike or a road bike handlebar, you must remove the brifters and other accessories. To do this, flip up the rubber overlaps of the brake levers and loosen the retaining screw (just loosen, do not unscrew).
2. Unwrap the handlebar tape completely and detach the brake and shift cables from the bike handlebar. These are usually fixed to the handlebar with electrical tape. Now pull the brake/shift levers down and carefully lay them aside. They are held by the cables on the bike.

The fixation of the brake/shift lever (=brifter) is done via the screw located under the grip rubber. You can simply flip it up.

3. Now you can loosen the four screws that secure the old bike handlebar to the stem and remove the old handlebar. Place the new road bike handlebar centrally in the designated clamping area of the stem and screw it tight. Make sure not to fully tighten the four screws yet and first align the handlebar horizontally. Next, proceed with the final handlebar assembly by threading the brake levers back onto the handlebar – do not swap the left with the right! You only need to roughly position them correctly for now and then lightly tighten the retaining screws of the brake levers.
4. In the next step align the levers. For the height, you can use the print on the handlebar, a spirit level, or a tape measure, both should be mounted at exactly the same height on the handlebar bend. Also, pay attention to the angle of the brake levers. They should be mounted parallel to the drop of the handlebar. On handlebars with flare (bend outwards), for example, slightly turned outwards. When correctly aligned, the brake lever covers the lower handlebar if you look at your bike from the front.
5. Once you have set the appropriate positions, you can tighten the levers' locking screws and attach the cables to the road or gravel handlebars with electrical tape. For handlebars with internal cable routing, you must of course route the cables through the handlebars at this point. Only then do you wrap the new handlebar tape around both sides of the handlebars and finally fold back the lever's grip rubbers.

Changing the handlebars of an MTB flatbar is not difficult. However, you should work carefully because these handlebars are subjected to great forces!

Handlebar Conversion & Stem Change on MTB

Especially on an MTB, it is worth experimenting with different stems, handlebar widths, and shapes, as the riding characteristics can change significantly with a few centimeters more or less.

Mounting the Stem on a Mountain Bike

1. Before you can change the stem of your MTB and mount a new one, you must first get rid of the old one. To do this, take a suitable Allen key and loosen the four screws on the clamp connecting the handlebar and stem.
2. Once you have unscrewed all four screws, you can remove the handlebar and carefully lay it forward. It is now still held by the brake and shift cables.
3. Next loosen the two screws on the stem that are sideways to the fork. About 1.5 turns are usually enough here. Now the large Ahead screw is loosened. Caution - if your bike is hanging in a repair stand, you must hold your fork when loosening the Ahead screw, otherwise, it will fall out. If your bike is on the ground, this naturally won't happen. Now loosen the Ahead screw, remove the spacers (if present), and pull the stem upwards off the steerer tube.
4. For the handlebar mounting you can follow the instructions in reverse order. Insert the new stem onto the steerer tube and place the Ahead cap with screw from above in its place and slightly tighten it – beware... the large Ahead screw is an adjustment screw, not a locking screw! Now reattach the handlebar and secure it with the four screws on the stem. Use a torque wrench for the last turns and always follow the manufacturer's specifications for force application, you will find them either on the stem or in the user manual. Always tighten the four screws in a cross pattern.
5. Next move your bike slowly back and forth with the front brake engaged . With your index finger, feel at the lower transition between the fork and the frame to check if there is still any play. If nothing wobbles there anymore, you can also tighten the side stem bolts. A torque wrench is recommended here as well. However, make sure to align the handlebars straight beforehand. Stand centrally over your bike, look down at the (suspension) fork of your bike, and compare the optical distances between the handlebars and the fork. If the distance is the same on both sides, your handlebars are optimally aligned.
6. If the headset still has some play, simply tighten the ahead bolt a bit more. Usually, minimal rotational movements with the Allen key are sufficient for this.

When converting handlebars on a mountain bike, first loosen the grips, brake levers, and shifters.

Handlebar installation of a new handlebar on a mountain bike

Installing a new handlebar on the MTB is usually quick and easy.

1. First, remove the grips and the brake and shifter levers from the old handlebar. You can carefully lay the brake and shifter levers down and let them hang on the cables or wrap them around the frame with cable ties or insulating tape.
2. In the next step loosen the four bolts on the stem, remove the handlebar and attach the new one in reverse order. When tightening the four bolts, you must again pay attention to the correct torque and tighten the bolts alternately in a cross pattern evenly. Make sure that the gap dimensions of the handlebar clamp are the same at the top and bottom.
3. Finally, thread the shifter & brake levers and grips back onto the handlebar. Make sure not to swap the brake levers and mount them as you have ridden them before. You can use a spirit level to align the brake grips evenly, but usually, an optical check from the side of the handlebars is sufficient.

Especially in combination with carbon components (here the fork steerer), you should definitely use a torque wrench and adhere to the manufacturer's torque specifications.

The special features of mounting carbon bicycle handlebars and stems

As always, caution is advised when installing carbon components. During carbon handlebar installation and conversion to a carbon stem, there are a few special rules to follow when changing your components.

Here you must absolutely pay attention to the correct torque . To tighten all screw connections correctly, you absolutely need a torque wrench . In most cases, you will find a print on the carbon handlebar or carbon stem with the allowed values in Newton meters (NM). If that is not the case, the user manual will surely help you.

It is also advisable to use special bicycle assembly paste, in this case Carbon Paste , when assembling carbon parts such as road bike carbon handlebars and mountain bike carbon handlebars.

↳Material & Information for Carbon Handlebar Assembly ↵

Torque Wrench | Carbon Assembly Paste | Info: Blog Torque Wrench | Info: Blog Carbon Paste

Warning: Carbon Paste is not the same as lubricants or anti-corrosion greases. Carbon pastes do not reduce adhesion, but rather enhance it. If you want to know more, you will find all the important information about assembling carbon components in our article "What is Carbon Assembly Paste and why do you need it?"

Handlebar Change on a Bicycle – What’s the Benefit?

Now you know how... but why should you bother and reach for the torque wrench? Clearly, if a bicycle part has aged or eventually gives up, you need a replacement. However, even with a brand new bike, many riders often reach for a torque wrench for a handlebar conversion after a short time.

• The stem determines how far you have to stretch to the handlebar. Short stem: upright position, long stem: stretched seating position!
• The stem can also have a more or less steep angle, thus affecting the seating position. The upper body is raised higher or bent lower over the handlebar.
• All handlebars – whether for an MTB, road bike, gravel, city, or trekking bike – are available in different widths and shapes, which greatly change the ergonomics, arm position, ride stability, and wind resistance.
• Handlebars can also have different diameters. Depending on the size of your hands, this can provide relief.
• There are also different materials that influence the weight and stiffness of the handlebar.

Read the blog post “Adjusting Bicycle Handlebars” for all the important information.